Essentially John Ruler

Calais’s erstwhile image as a port you either pass through or pick up your plonk is fast fading in favour of a more family friendly face.  This it is largely thanks to a much publicised fire breathing passenger carrying dragon and a vastly renovated sandy seafront. This includes a promenade for walkers and cyclists, a skate park for young and old and play areas.

Nor does this very British city deemed a Ville ou pays d’art et d’histoire  (City of Art and History) – lack must see sites. These are shared between Calais-Nord, located on a man-made island bordered by canals and the harbour and St- Pierre, to the south -east. The former focuses on fishing and is hence home to the finest restaurants.

Easily recognisable in the latter is the flamboyant town hall  whose 75m belfry was used as  a landmark by World War 2  pilots during which some 80 per cent of the once stylish city was either flattened, or destroyed, by the Allies or the Germans. This is dramatically reflected in the creeper covered War Museum, formerly a German Navy bunker and command post cleverly camouflaged in the middle of the tranquil Parc St Pierre.

Nor can you miss Rodin’s famous bronze statue of the Six Burghers of Calais who sacrificed their lives to save the besieged townsfolk from being slain by England’s Edward III in 1346.

Less obvious, but well worth a detour, is the mainly late 15th century Eglise Notre Dame. Roofless for some 20 years following mistaken allied bombing in 1944, it was the stunning setting in 1921 for the wedding of Charles de Gaulle and the locally born Yvonne Vendroux. Reopened in 2013, the church is said to be the only one built in English perpendicular style in Continental Europe. It was also part of the archdiocese of Canterbury, a reminder that Calais was for 200 years a member of the English crown. Even now it regarded as being a bit too English by the townsfolk of neighbouring Dunkirk.

A stone’s throw away from the church, the Museum of Fine Arts exhibits a panorama of painting and sculptures, particularly from the 19th and 20th centuries. These include work by Auguste Rodin, the man behind the monument to the Burghers of Calais.

Also jockeying for top spot, is Cité internationale de la Dentelle et de la Mode (City of Lace and Fashion).

Opened in 2009, it shows how lace still threads its way into local life through costumes, fashion objects, tools and industrial machinery including five working looms with explanations provided by a former lacemaker.

Also worth a visit:  the chunky
13th century watchtower La Tour du Guet which acted as a military post in World War 1 complete with a dovecote for carrier pigeons.  Grab a coffee at one of the numerous cafes, before climbing the spiral staircase of the 19th century lighthouse for a splendid view of Calais – and on a sunny day the White Cliffs of Dover.

Tourist Offices

Calais Côte d’Opale Tourist Information Office:  12 bld Georges Clemenceau; tel (+33) 321966240. Pick up a year-round “Happy fiu” tourist map tailored for youngsters, it outlines a fun tour around the streets of Calais.

Getting there

By Ferry:

(Dover to Calais. 90 minutes) Though eclipsed by Le Shuttle it remains the cheapest option on the 90 minutes crossing.  

• P&O Ferries: www.poferries.com ;
• Irish Ferries www.irishferries.com 
• DFDS www.dfds.com/en  (Dover to Calais  and Dover-Dunkirk.

Note: P&O Ferries are the only company, subject to a number of restrictions, to take foot passengers on their Dover-Calais route. See also cyclists.

By train:  Not viable as Eurostar trains no longer stop at Calais Frethun.

Le Shuttle (Eurotunnel) www.eurotunnel.com Folkestone to Calais in 35 minutes. Book early and travel outside of peak times for the best rates’